Lion rock
Two drenched humans, one dodgy tuk-tuk ride, a climb that revealed we’re not “activewear people,” and the discovery of Sri Lanka’s finest roadside snack. Sigiriya is many things—forgettable isn’t one.
Lion rock
20 September 2013
This morning, after a terrible night's sleep, we headed to Sigiriya, a huge rock in the middle of the jungle, with two massive lion paws at the entrance.
I gave my new mate Christy (yesterday's tuk-tuk driver) a call and asked him to drive us. It was 3 hours along sketchy mountain roads, but we are trying to find the beaches in Trinco, and this seemed like an economical and fun way to get closer and see the Lion Rock at the same time.
The first thing we noticed was the amount of police and soldiers in and around Kandy. We quickly realised that it's currently (starting tomorrow) the Sri Lankan elections, and a very dangerous time to be in the cities (mothers and fathers, I'm exaggerating for effect), so we sped off in our three-wheeled chariot.
We definitely made the best decision. Although it was a bit uncomfortable, and wet when it rained—and it did rain, hard—it was an unforgettable way to see the countryside and the locals who inhabit it. I have been busy snapping away as we sped past, and I'll upload photos soon. Maybe tomorrow...
We arrived in Sigiriya, in a guesthouse so close we can see the rock, and the cheapest we've seen, which was mainly due to Suzie's hard work and determination phoning round this morning. We promptly decided that we loved it. It's quite a big family home, with about six tiny guest rooms in and around the house. It's very basic with no air conditioning, but it's clean, cheap, and perfect for us.
We promptly walked up the road to find a beer as a reward, and on the way back I found the best thing ever. By the side of the road, an old haggard man with only a few teeth was selling what we were told were 'cheese rottis.' Exotic. Obviously, this tangled, tantalised, and tingled my taste buds, and I bought one. Essentially, it's melted Dairylea in a wrap, and I'll be having one every day.
Feeling slightly bloated and a little drunk, we stumbled back.
Later, after sobering up somewhat, we started the trek toward the rock. Ten minutes later, before we'd actually stepped foot at the bottom, sweating, wheezing, and stumbling, it was decided we were very unhealthy. But with 90-year-old women overtaking us, we marched on toward the summit.
The journey, although arduous, was entirely rewarding. The view halfway up was incredible, but the view from the top was breathtaking. Surrounded by mountains and lush jungle stretching out into the horizon, it really was incredible.
We tried to find the 'exit,' and after being confronted by two hornets, we both ran back the way we came (like little girls).
We sauntered back through the 'tourist car park' like pros, ignoring even the most convincing offers of help.
Now we're just about to tuck-tuck (see what I did there) into some Sri Lankan home cooking, lovingly (I hope) prepared by our hosts.
Tomorrow we do nothing.
Join Our Newsletter
Get a weekly selection of curated articles from our editorial team.